Wednesday, October 31, 2012

Nutty Whole Grain Pumpkin Coffee Cake with Bourbon Glaze

Put down that Tootsie Roll, you know you don't really want it.  You know it tastes like an old tire.  Have this instead.  


I paced around the kitchen for a long time this morning fighting with myself about whether to make my original recipe for pumpkin bread one more time, or strike out in a new direction.


I crave the moist pumpkin-y crumb, the dark, half melted chocolate chips and the crunchy walnuts of my tried and true recipe.  But I'm a food blogger, damn it---and innovation is the name of my game.  I can't just sit back on my laurels and happily eat Chocolate Chip Pumpkin Bread for the rest of my life, much as I'd like to.


This cake is perfect for getting you out of bed in the morning, but will also come in handy when you're sitting on the couch waiting for those inevitable stragglers late tonight, the ones who ring the doorbell even after you've turned out the lights and closed your curtains.  They can see the faint glow of the tv, they know you've got a couple more pieces of candy left in that bowl.  They're not going to let you go to bed.  You might as well cut yourself another slice of cake.


Nutty Whole Grain Pumpkin Coffee Cake
oven to 350
spray a bundt or tube pan well
1 cup pumpkin puree
1/2 cup vegetable oil
2 eggs
1 cup brown sugar
1/4 tsp each of nutmeg, cardamom, allspice and ginger
  • Whisk the above ingredients together in a large mixing bowl.
1/2 cup all purpose flour
1/2 cup whole wheat flour
1/2 cup oat flour
1/2 tsp salt
1 tsp baking soda
1 1/2 cup rough chopped pecans
  • Whisk together the dry ingredients and add them to the wet.  Mix just until combined, don't over mix.  Fold in the nuts.
  • Pour the batter into a well greased bundt pan.  Bake for about 50 minutes until a toothpick comes out clean.
  • Cool the pan on a rack for about 15 minutes, then carefully remove the cake and continue cooling on a rack before glazing.
Vanilla Bourbon Glaze
1 1/2 cups confectioner's sugar
1 tsp vanilla extract
3 Tbsp bourbon
milk or cream to thin
  • Mix the sugar with the vanilla and bourbon, adding enough milk or cream to make a spreadable glaze.  Spread or drizzle it over the cooled coffee cake.
Happy Halloween!

Tuesday, October 30, 2012

Chicken and Mushroom Pie


This rustic pie is so good.  I originally planned to make a chicken and root vegetable pot pie, but when I passed by the mushroom stall at the farmer's market on Sunday morning something went off in whatever lobe of the brain handles recipes.  It sprang, fully formed, into view...a creamy pie with big chunks of chicken and mushrooms  I think sometimes focusing on fewer ingredients really gives a dish so much more 'oomph'.


Buttery flaky strips of crust are woven over that delicious filling.


I used a mix of cremini, shitake, and button mushrooms, but you can use any kind you like.


Actually I don't really mean that.  If you go with all white button mushrooms your filling will be bland. As a general rule, the darker the mushroom, the richer the flavor, and mixing varieties gives a nice blend of flavors and textures.  Mushrooms are the star players in this dish; go for some interesting ones.


The peas and leeks adds a little sweetness and color. I used thyme, but tarragon goes well with mushrooms, too.  I love the pale green bits of leek, the darker green peas and thyme leaves, next to those black mushroom caps, it was almost a shame to cover it up. 


But every pie needs a crust.  I cut strips of dough from a single pie crust and lay them out over the filling, weaving them together the best I could.  Don't make yourself crazy over this.  You can see that I didn't :)


I just let the ends drape over the edge where they fell...remember this is 'rustic'.  But hey, you can be a Martha Stewart minion if you want to.  It's your call.

Chicken Mushroom Pie
serves 4
oven to 350
1 unbaked pie crust, refrigerated (see recipe here)
2 boneless skinless chicken breasts
  • In a small saucepan, cover the chicken with cold water and bring to a simmer.  Poach the chicken gently till barely done through, about 10 minutes, you don't want it to be rubbery, and it will continue to cook in the oven.  Drain, and when cool enough to handle, cut in large rustic chunks.
4 Tbsp unsalted butter
1 large shallot, peeled and thinly sliced
2 medium leeks, peeled, sliced and well rinsed
3 pints mixed mushrooms, cleaned and thickly sliced or quartered (they shrink down quite a bit)  You want a chunky texture.
  • Melt the butter in the bottom of a heavy bottomed pot.  Saute the shallot and leek for a few minutes until they start to soften.  Add the mushrooms and continue sauteing for 5 more minutes over medium heat.
1/4 flour
1/2 cup dry sherry (or another fortified wine like Marsala or Vermouth)
1 1/2 cups chicken stock, heated in the microwave for 2 minutes
salt and fresh cracked black pepper to taste
2-3 Tbsp fresh thyme leaves
1/2 cup frozen baby peas, no need to thaw
  • Sprinkle in the flour and cook for a couple of minutes, stirring constantly.
  • Pour in the sherry and let it bubble away for a minute or so, still stirring.
  • Add the hot stock and bring back to a simmer, stirring constantly.  
  • Add the chicken to the thickened stock, and the salt and pepper to taste.
  • Let the pot simmer gently for a couple of minutes and then add the fresh thyme leaves and the frozen peas.  Pour into a deep dish pie plate or a casserole and set aside while you roll out the crust.
  • Roll out the crust on a floured board and cut into strips. Weave the strips across the pie, interlacing them as best you can...don't make yourself crazy.
  • Bake the pie for about 40-45 minutes until the crust is golden and the filling is bubbling.  Be sure to lay a sheet of foil under the pie to catch any filling that might bubble out.
Notes:  The flavor of the sherry is important, don't skip it.  I always keep a bottle of some kind of fortified wine in the cabinet, it keeps forever, and adds a very distinctive flavor to so many dishes.  Marsala or vermouth will work, too.  Some people like to brush their crusts with beaten egg or milk, which will make it more golden brown, but I don't like the shiny finish.


I had a little too much filling for my pie plate, so I made an extra mini casserole...




Monday, October 29, 2012

Minimal Monday: Hot, Sweet 'n Smokey Mustard


I keep having these 'aha!' moments in cooking where I realize that just because something is made in a factory and has a label slapped on it doesn't mean I can't make it myself.  I keep forgetting that some of the world's best foods have been made in primitive kitchens for centuries before there were factories and labels and unpronounceable ingredients. 


But don't worry, this is Minimal Monday, and I wouldn't get you involved in a long drawn-out project like homemade bread, or chicken stock.  


Making mustard is a cinch. In its purest form it's just crushed or whole mustard seeds mixed with a liquid.


But since it's been around for centuries, people have come up with a lot of variations, and you can have lots of fun deciding exactly which liquid you want to use, and which flavorings might be delicious in YOUR OWN PERSONAL mustard,  For instance, you could use plain water.  But you can also use cider, like I did.  Or hard cider.  Or ale, brandy, cognac, fruit juice, wine, whiskey, champagne...you get the idea.


And then you can contemplate other flavors like maple, molasses, ginger, cranberries, tarragon, lemon, orange, chile, walnuts, Vidalia onion, chives, shallots, raspberries, garlic, horseradish, turmeric, paprika, dill, smoked salts, allspice, wasabi, Tabasco, caraway, coriander, curry, apricot, olive, etc. etc.  I'm starting with a basic mustard, but I couldn't resist using some hickory smoked salt and a little honey.


I've made ketchup, done mayo, now I'm ready to conquer mustard.  I based my experiments on this recipe because it was straightforward and easy.  I like things spicy, so I used both brown and yellow seeds, but you can use all yellow for a milder mustard, or go for all brown. Or, find yourself some black mustard seeds and proceed at your own risk!

Homemade Hot Sweet 'n Smokey Mustard
makes 1 cup

3 Tbsp yellow mustard seeds
3 Tbsp brown mustard seeds (use all yellow seeds for a milder mustard)
  • Partially grind the seeds in a spice grinder, coffee grinder, or mortar and pestle.  This is one job that a small food processor can't do, the seeds are too small.   I left about half of the seeds intact for texture in my mustard.
1/2 cup mustard powder (I used Coleman's)
3 Tbsp cider vinegar
1/2 cup cider or hard cider
2 tsp hickory smoked salt
2 Tbsp honey
  • Mix the seeds with the mustard powder, vinegar, cider, salt and honey.  Stir until smooth and lump free.  If it seems too thick, add more cider, if it seems a little thin, add more mustard powder, the consistency is up to you.  The mustard will thicken a bit as it sits.
  • Pour into a sealable glass jar and let rest for a day before using to mellow out the bitter compounds in the mustard. I keep mine in the refrigerator. 
Note:  This mustard is hot. If you taste it after only 24 hours, it will be really hot.  It will mellow as it sits.  Again, use yellow seeds if you don't like a lot of heat.

I think I'm going to use some of my mustard in Baked Whitefish with Mustard Sauce. 
  
Interesting mustard facts:
  • Mustard is a part of the family of plants that includes cabbage, radish, Brussels sprouts, kale and broccoli.
  • Its name comes from the fact that mustard was originally made by grinding the seeds and mixing them with grape 'must', or grape juice.
  • Mustard grows as a weed in North America.
  • Father Junipero Serra scattered black mustard seeds along the routes from monastery to monastery to mark the way in 1768 and the plants still bloom along the highway in California.
  • Mustard seeds come in yellow, brown and black.
  • The darker the seed, the hotter the mustard.
  • Using plain water to make mustard will yield the hottest mustard.
  • Whatever liquid you use, a cold liquid will result in a hotter mustard, while a hot liquid, or cooking the mustard, will dampen its heat and flavor.
  • Pure mustard is anti-bacterial, it does not go bad, or grow mold. 
  • Mustard use predates recorded history.
  • After salt and pepper, mustard is the most widely used spice in the world.
  • Dijon France is the mustard capitol of the world.
  • Turmeric is what makes French's mustard yellow.
  • Mustard is a cool weather crop and currently the world's biggest supplier is Canada.
  • The National Mustard Museum in in Middleton, Wisconsin.
Have a great Monday!  

Saturday, October 27, 2012

Home, the three year flu, and Flourless Vanilla Bean Cake

The timing couldn't have been more awful.  I haven't had so much as a sniffle in 3 years and then I came down with a whopper of a flu right in the middle of our short visit with our daughter.  Yesterday I boarded the return flight armed with a wad of kleenex the size of a carry-on bag and settled into a hellish four hours of being sick as a dog but trying desperately not to show it.  I hate to admit it but I'm one of those people who glares at hackers, coughers, and sneezers on planes.  I would have been shooting daggers at myself for sure.

Hopefully none of you were on Virgin America flight 233 from Chicago last night.  It was bad.


But now I'm home and I'm ready to cook.  Something easy so I won't keel over in the middle of making  it.  Those soft pretzels that I was planning to make the minute we touched down will have to wait.


This cake is based on my absolutely insanely delicious Belgian Chocolate Cake, and if you haven't taken  a look at that one, I suggest you do asap.   You'll want to make it for the holidays, I promise you.


I've always had a fascination for opposites.  In this case the deep rich Belgian chocolate of the original cake is switched out for an equally moist and rich vanilla.  I was planning to swap out the snowy white confectioner's sugar for cocoa powder but when I saw how golden brown the top of this cake got in the oven, I decided to stick with the confectioner's sugar topping. 

 
You can either dust the cake all over or you can get fancy and sift your sugar or cocoa powder through a doily to get a beautiful lace pattern.  Both vintage crochet or paper doilies will work, you just need to find one that fits your cake and has enough cut-out work so the design will show through.  It helps to experiment a bit beforehand so you know what works and what doesn't.  I find that old crochet doilies leave the best patterns, but work with what you have.


Lay the doily flat on the top of the cake and sprinkle the cocoa or powdered sugar liberally and evenly across the entire top with a sifter or small strainer, going around the outside of the doily so you will get an impression of the outer edge, too.  Then carefully lift the doily off without disturbing the pattern. (It helps to have an extra set of hands here).



This cake is very moist, with a chewy, almost pecan-pie-without-the-pecans type of texture. 

Flourless Vanilla Bean Cake
oven to 325
9 ounces good quality white chocolate cut in chunks
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut up

  • Put the butter and then the chocolate in a microwave safe bowl.  Microwave for 30 seconds, then stir.  Microwave for another 30 seconds, and stir again.  If it's not completely melted, put it back in for another 30 seconds, and stir until the chocolate completely melts. 
1 1/3 cup sugar
3 tablespoons almond flour (or regular flour)
5 large eggs, preferably room temperature, beaten with a whisk until well blended
1 Tbsp vanilla extract (don't skimp)
seeds of 1 vanilla bean
confectioner's sugar or cocoa powder for sifting on top

  • Add the sugar and flour to the chocolate, then the eggs, extract, and vanilla seeds and blend well.  The mixture will thicken.  Cover and set aside at room temperature for 30 minutes.
  • Pour into a well oiled 9 inch spring-form pan.  Bake for about 55-60 minutes, until firm on top and cracks form across the surface.  Cool on a rack briefly and then remove the outer ring.
  • Sift confectioner's sugar or cocoa powder over the top.
Notes:  The cake will puff up and then settle back down right about when it's done.  It will be golden brown and shouldn't be jiggly in the center. 


I can't say I wasn't glad to get home last night.  My head was exploding and every bit of my body ached.  But I'm feeling a little melancholy after leaving my daughter.  Maybe it was because she's now living in a part of the country that's new to us all. Or because there was a gentle drizzle the whole time we were there, or that the last coppery leaves were sailing down from oak trees in silent, swirling, patterns.  Maybe it was that the sun came out suddenly just as we were pulling out of town, and gave everything an achingly beautiful golden tinge.  The historic, slightly scruffy streets of Madison, lined with row upon row of vintage homes re-purposed for student housing, with all the bikes and couches propped up on the old porches reminded me of my own early days with my husband.  And somehow, seeing the coop where my daughter and her boyfriend shop, the places where they work and study, the streets and bus stops they'll be traversing every day for the next years left me with a simultaneous feeling of connection and distance from them.  Anyway I'm at least glad to have left my daughter in such a vibrant and creative place; Madison is lovely and I wouldn't mind living there myself.  Maybe that's why it was so hard to leave.

Or maybe it's just that this flu is kicking my butt.


One year ago today---

Friday, October 26, 2012

It's 5 O'Clock Somewhere Friday: Wisconsin Style

Between now and the New Year I'm dedicating my Fridays to the cocktail hour. I'm going to explore appetizers, little plates, tapas, and all manner of late in the day snacks, nibbles, finger food, and the occasional libation to wash it all down with. I'm excited, this is my favorite way to eat, whether I'm throwing a holiday party or just hanging out with the nightly news.



Since I'm out of town and suffering from very spotty Internet access, I'm including some quick cocktail hour links inspired by our week in Madison Wisconsin...

Wisconsin Cheese Picks & Bites are part of a marketing campaign by the Wisconsin Milk BoardClick on the link to see all the variations of these cocktail picks. They look like a kaleidoscope when they're arranged on a platter. I'm definitely going to make a bunch of these for my next party.


Perique Tobacco Liqueur

The creativity of the Madison cocktail scene is pretty amazing.  Many of the more exotic ingredients are created by the individual bars themselves.  This week I tasted a drink made with a tobacco tincture. I have a weakness for woodsy, smokey scents, so I knew this would appeal to me.  The bar made their own tincture, but this Perique tobacco liqueur would be similar, and it's nicotine free.
                                        
  Beer and Cheese Dip
This one looks especially good.

                                         


Handmade cheese and bread boards
We had a cheese plate with every meal while we were in Madison.  They were served on all manner of boards, plates and planks, the more rustic the better.


Gallery of Bitters
On our last night I had a cocktail made with cider, and rum, and cardamom and chili bitters. The drink had a hot, spicy kick to it, which was great since the temperature dropped 20 degrees in the space of an hour, the tornado sirens went off twice in that time, and the windows of the tiny bar and restaurant where we had dinner were completely fogged over.  Once again, the bitters were made in house, but this site has a mind boggling array of options. I feel a DIY post coming on....



Mini Bratwurst Appetizers


Homemade Soft Pretzels
They serve these with big smears of various mustards on the side.  I'm making these the minute I get home...

Thursday, October 25, 2012

Pasta Bolognese

I'm still in Wisconsin, but my One Year Ago Today post was a really great  Pasta Bolognese...have a look.


Tuesday, October 23, 2012

Roasted Beet Biscuits

We're visiting our oldest daughter in Madison Wisconsin this week.  I'm so excited to see her, the campus, her new apartment, and explore the great foodie town I've heard so much about.  I spent the few days before we left clearing out the kitchen, one of those unavoidable chores that has to get done before leaving home.  In this case I had some beautiful beets in the fridge, and they gave me the excuse to make something I've been curious to try for a long time.


I loved the Sweet Potato Biscuits I made recently, and I thought it would be fun to see if I could capture the color and flavor of beets in a biscuit as well.  I'd never seen it done before, and I wasn't sure I could pull it off, but I think I did!


There are a few things to keep in mind when making these biscuits.  Your beets should be roasted until they are completely soft, and you should puree them thoroughly, so they are as smooth and lump free as possible.  For me this meant running my small food processor a little longer than usual, and scraping down the sides several times.  A food mill would be perfect for this.  You will want to knead the dough briefly to work the beet puree though the dough so that your biscuits have as uniform a color as possible.  This is tricky because you never want to over-work biscuit dough or it will get tough as you develop the gluten in the wheat. 


These are worth making just for that color alone, don't you think?


Serve these striking scarlet biscuits with fall soups and stews, or alongside roasted meats and poultry.


Roasted Beet Biscuits
oven to 425
makes 6 large biscuits
2 cups all purpose flour
1 Tbsp baking powder
1 tsp salt
1 tsp sugar
  • Put the above dry ingredients in the bowl of a food processor and whiz briefly to combine.
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, cold and cut in pieces
  • Pulse in the butter, about 10-15 pulses to break it up and evenly distribute it through the flour.  The mix will be coarsely crumbly.
1/2 cup cold buttermilk (plus a little more if necessary)
1/2 cup beet puree  (roast your beets in a 400 degree oven until soft, then peel and puree.)
  • Whisk together the buttermilk and beets and then add to the dry ingredients, while pulsing the machine.  If necessary, add a little more buttermilk to insure that the dough comes together.  Don't over-process.
  • Turn the wet dough out onto a floured board and knead a couple of times to blend the beet color through the dough.
  • Pat the dough into an thick 8 inch round and cut 4 biscuits.  Reform the dough gently and cut 2 more.
  • Place the biscuits on a silpat or parchment lined baking sheet.  Put the whole pan in the freezer for about 20 minutes while you clean up.  If you pan can't fit in the freezer, put it in the refrigerator.
  • Bake the biscuits for about 15-18 minutes, until risen and done inside. 
  • Cool on a rack, or eat hot.

ps~~~ I also made pumpkin biscuits, using much the same method.  I'll post a recipe for them when I get home,




Other beet recipes you might want to try---